Simple and Classic: Butterfield 9

Butterfield 9
600 14th Street, NW
http://www.butterfield9.com/

My husband and I treated ourselves to a celebratory dinner at Butterfield 9 a few weeks ago. I was in charge of selecting the cuisine and while I would usually jump on an opportunity like this to try a new restaurant that has gotten rave reviews, I was curiously drawn to what some may call “an old standby.” Butterfield 9 has been around for a while and certainly doesn’t seem to be getting the attention it used to. This was the third time I’ve eaten dinner here over the course of about 5 years and what I love most about it is its consistency. My memories of Butterfield 9 were of food that was superbly delicious – and classic. No crazy ingredients, just clean, fresh tastes that mirror the equally clean, minimal décor.

We debated whether to go for the five course tasting menu with wine pairings or to order off the regular menu. We ultimately decided to forego the debauchery that would have ensued with five different glasses of wine because we realized that with a good bottle to share, we could get most everything we were drawn to from the regular menu – between the two of us. In fact, everything we selected except the tuna and the crème brulee were also offered on the tasting menu. In addition, we had friends coming to town and did not desire to spend the whole night at the restaurant as so often can happen with tasting menus.

The service was excellent – in fact there were only a few other guests in the restaurant (more on this later). Our waiter was very attentive and very accommodating to our indecision over which items to choose. There was so much on the menu of interest! What I loved about the menu is that no course included that one strange ingredient which, while trendy and of the moment, turns you off from the whole experience (essence of foie gras foam?). Everything was basic yet flavorful, without any overwhelming tastes or textures. Simple, classic cuisine.

We started with the gnocchi (chervil and ricotta with beet chips, pea shoot tendrils and Reggiano) and the seared scallop (with salsify puree, bell pepper jus, pancetta and toast). The gnocchi was well cooked, but not well done. No gumminess here, just delectable, melt-in-your-mouth dumplings. The beet chips and Reggiano were perfect accompaniments, letting the natural flavors of the gnocchi really shine through. The seared scallop was tasty, and large. Enough to share. And the crispy pancetta and toast offered a nice textural balance.

Next up, our entrees. Striped sea bass (with braised fennel, lobster ravioli, and Rappahannock clams) and the yellowfin ahi tuna (with haricot vert, onions confit, black radish, lemon grass scallion broth). I have to be honest, the lobster ravioli was the selling point of the striped sea bass because it is typically not my favorite fish and it was well worth it. The sea bass, which to me never has much taste, took on the sweetness of the fennel and ravioli. The clams were clams, and provided a nice textural contrast but not much to the overall impression of the entrée. The ahi tuna was cooked nicely, perfectly raw in the middle, and again the flavors were born of the onion confit and lemon grass broth.

Dessert was a winner! White chocolate crème brulee and a hazelnut mousse crostiliant with chocolate sauce and hazelnut ice cream. Enough to satisfy our sweet tooths and the perfect end to a quite delicious dinner.

I don’t know if we happened to dine on a quiet night or if Butterfield 9 just isn’t getting the patronage that it used to. I wonder if it is often overlooked due to its downtown location which generally shuts down over the weekends. We were one of maybe five tables filled in the entire restaurant and finished our meal around 9:00 on a Friday night. What I love about this restaurant, though, aside from the food, is that it is not stuffy or pretentious. There is no need to get dressed up – a top with a nice pair of jeans will serve just fine and you will be treated as if you walked in wearing diamonds and pearls.

**** (out of 4)
20% tip: keep this restaurant in mind for a special occasion and you’ll be sure to feel like a king (or queen)