Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Komi: A Meal to Remember

Komi
1509 17th Street NW
http://www.komirestaurant.com/

I am a glutton for inventive food, so when we received an invitation from a friend to dine at Komi, I re-arranged all of my plans. Ok, I had no plans really, but ever since chef Johnny Monis was named one of the best new chefs by Food and Wine magazine, it has been near impossible to get in the door. I wasn't going to pass up this opportunity.

And I am sure glad I didn't. This meal was one of the best I've had in my eight years in D.C. and I liken it a bit to
Obelisk - another fixed price menu of delicious yet unpretentious food featuring unique combinations of ingredients. Like, Obelisk, I felt like I had arrived at a friend's house when I entered Komi. It is small and unassuming on the inside and you are made to feel like the guest of honor. Tables are spread out enough that you can have your own conversation and dining experience without feeling infringed upon by your neighbor.

Komi offers a fixed price menu - either you choose from several options per section or have the chef prepare a tasting menu for you, of his choosing but as is typical, the entire table must oblige to this second option. We decided to select our own and add the wine pairings. We were in for a treat. The staff was so very knowledgeable about each ingredient and the sommelier fully explained the wine offerings to us, at the start of each new course.

First course: a selection of mezzethakia (in my best Greek, roughly translates to small bites). I think we each received 8 and this course incorporated two wine pairings. [A note on the wine pairings: these are FULL glasses of wine which translates to an excellent deal but a heavy night of drinking. Be forewarned that I don't have the best recollection of the later courses... ] Highlights from the mezzethakia: a date that literally melts in your mouth, watermelon with whipped feta topped with a hazelnut, and an oxtail pita "sandwich". One diner in our party is a vegetarian and each meat based mezzethakia had a vegetable based equivalent that both looked the same and contained similar flavors (the oxtail pita translated to a wild mushroom pita - both dense and earthy flavors).

The second course featured a selection of pastas. I selected the local corn ravioli with summer truffles and langoustines and others at our table enjoyed the Gorgonzola ravioli with pears and almonds and the tagliatelle with guanciale and blueberries.

For our main entree, I shared the bronzino for two which was delicately cooked in a typical Mediterranean style of olive oil and lemon and accompanied by a side of garlicky chard. Prior to this course, the waitress came out to present the whole fish to us before it was filleted and said that the chef would like to know whether we wanted the head served for its fleshy cheek meat. Apparently a delicacy, but we declined. It was at this point that I believe I caught of glimpse of Chef Monis working hard in the kitchen. It was something of a celebrity sighting to me.

Dessert had a plethora of exciting options, but I finally settled on the Greek doughnuts, bathed in honey with a side of chocolate mousse for dipping. They were light and airy and the perfect note on which to end my meal.

Our bill arrived with four lollipops wrapped in wax paper. Flavor of the evening was something with saffron and citrus. After a delicious meal and five glasses of wine, with a lollipop stick sticking out of my mouth, I felt as happy as a kid in a candy shop.

I hope to have this experience again. I'll make sure to reserve at table early.


**** (out of 4 stars)
20% tip: While the wines were paired quite nicely with the meal, be careful how much you drink. The food is too good to be forgotten the next morning.

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